2013 Sihh Geneva Haute Horlogerie Salon Preview-montblanc Nicholas Kay Chronograph Watches With Different Features Day And Night
A comprehensive look at the ‘hour’ presentation of the altar. In addition to the traditional hands, the design of the Arabic numeral dial and the window is not uncommon in the field of mechanical watches in recent years. It is used to display the Arabic numerals of the hour. The turntable will slowly advance one division per hour as the minute hand rotates one circle at a time. The same is true of Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours. The traditional hour hand no longer appears on the face of this watch. There is a fan-shaped window at twelve o’clock, which can clearly see the three hollow Arabic numerals on the dial. The triangle mark can accurately indicate the current hour position, but in details, this watch has extremely forward-looking technological innovations. The newly released Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours chronograph watch, 18K rose gold version sells for about NT $ 1.23 million.
The key breakthrough for Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours is that the hollowed-out Arabic hour number with a two-color chassis will change color with day or night. When the night falls, it will display dark blue numbers, while the daytime is silver gray numbers, so users can easily distinguish between night and daylight hours. In addition, in view of the adjustment date of many models, users cannot distinguish whether the number on the faceplate is day or night, which causes the date window after adjustment often jumps at noon, which is impossible in Rising Hours. occur.
The self-made movement takes it to the next level
This new self-made movement is called MB R220. The patent mechanism consists of two overlapping dials. The upper layer has hollow Arabic numerals 1 to 12, and the lower layer is divided into silver gray and dark blue day and night display dials. The hollow hour dial continues to run, and the day and night display dial will instantly jump according to the predetermined time. Therefore, the hollow hour number will accurately display the representative color of day or night (silver gray during the day and dark blue at night).
Technically, this mechanism is driven by a Maltese cross composed of two cams. One cam is connected to the upper hour dial, and the other cam is installed on the axis of the lower day and night turntable. The cycle operation is as follows: at three in the morning, the two cams come into contact, driving the day and night display dial to accelerate; the four and a half morning to seven half in the morning, the day and night dial to maintain synchronous operation with the hour dial; half to nine in the morning At 2 o’clock, the rotation speed of the day and night display dial is slightly slowed down until the two cams are completely separated at 9 o’clock to stop the day and night display dial from rotating. At 3 o’clock in the afternoon, the two cams come into contact again for another twelve hour cycle as described above.
Based on the above, the patented ‘Rising Hours’ mechanism will be particularly noticeable at two times a day. At six o’clock in the morning, the left half of the hour mark ‘6’ will appear dark blue, and the right half will It is silver-gray, symbolizing the end of night, and the dawn is about to shine on the earth. At six o’clock in the evening, the left half of the hour mark ‘6’ is silver-gray, and the dark blue representing the night appears in the right half.
Loyal to the pure blood of the family, meticulous both inside and outside
In addition to the dual dials for the unique hour display, Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours has four dials: the nine o’clock position is the week display, the three o’clock direction is the date display, and the other two are under the face plate. There is no substitute for the inherited family products. Features, used to calculate the length of time of sixty seconds and thirty minutes. Like members of the Nicolas Rieussec family, this model uses the column wheel mechanism common to traditional chronographs and a very low-wear vertical clutch structure, which not only has excellent operation feel, but also makes timing more accurate. In addition, loyal to the traditional single-press timing button, set at eight o’clock, is relatively unconventional design, but in line with excellent ergonomics, users can easily operate with the thumb.
Through advanced computer simulation assisted design, the tooth profile of Rising Hours travel time gear can optimize power transmission, reduce gear wear and avoid unnecessary power waste. The most critical vibration frequency module in the travel structure uses a screw balance with a diameter of 11.4 mm. Due to the high quality of the large size, the moment of inertia of this balance reaches 12 mgcm2, and the vibration frequency is 28,800 per hour Times (half pendulum, equivalent to four hertz). The ultra-high stability also benefits from the dual barrel, which can provide a power reserve of up to 72 hours, and output extremely reliable and precise torque for a long time; it is also equipped with an automatic winding system, which can be worn on the wrist Have endless power for the movement to run.
Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours uses a hollow Arabic hour number and a two-tone chassis to show whether the current hour is day or night.
Fine watchmaking highlights the beauty of craftsmanship
In appearance, Rising Hours fully demonstrates the high-quality bloodlines of members of the Nicolas Rieussec family, perfectly embodying the fine watchmaking atmosphere. For example, the seconds and scoring dials of this series of products are paired with the hands at the static end; the round arch bridge at six o’clock is inlaid with bright ruby bearings, making the dial look like a smiling face. Above it is a slightly off-centered time display. The hollowed-out hour plate allows you to see the difference between day and night at a glance; the ring-shaped week window is on the left, and the date window of the same shape is neatly arranged on the right. The parts of the dial that are not arranged for display functions are decorated with grain d’ orge guilloche, which is a traditional decoration method indispensable to the top Swiss watchmaking technology.
This high-quality and precise homemade movement is installed in the elegant Nicolas Rieussec round case. Its diameter is 43 mm and the material is precious rose gold. The exquisite lugs integrated with the case are matched with a large brown checkered crocodile. The leather strap and the three-layer folding buckle in rose gold are exceptionally textured. The finely pitted, easy-to-adjust crown is also made of 18K rose gold and embedded with a mother-of-pearl hexagonal white star logo. The curved sapphire crystal has anti-glare treatment on both the inside and outside. A sapphire crystal is also embedded on the case back to facilitate the operation of the automatic disk. The automatic disk is also made of a single piece of rose gold. Refining efficiency.
The Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours chronograph also offers a more rare 950 platinum version and a stainless steel version. Platinum models are not easy to create. Only 28 of them are issued worldwide. In order to perfectly coordinate the color matching, it is equipped with gray crocodile leather. Strap and 18K white gold folding clasp. The stainless steel version comes with a black alligator strap and folding buckle.
Memorial Nicolas Rieussec (1781- 1866)
Since 2008, Montblanc has opened up new horizons in the field of fine watchmaking with the new look of the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph. This series is based on the creation of French 19th century watchmaker Nicolas Rieussec, who invented the world’s first timer that can calculate extremely short time intervals. This timer was based on ink and was launched in 1821. And made a profit in 1822. The innovative ‘ink drop timer’ uses two rotatable white porcelain dials to calculate seconds and minutes respectively. The dial is placed under a fixed pointer, and the tip of the pointer can drip ink and connect the ink reservoir. When the user presses the control button, the ink drips from the pointer tip to the white porcelain turntable to record multiple time intervals.
Because this device uses a white porcelain dial with ink stain timing, Rieussec used the ancient Greek ‘chronos’ and ‘graphein’ to create the compound word ‘chronograph’. ‘Chronos’ means ‘time’ and ‘graphein’ means ‘writing’. After the user record of the timer is completed, the white porcelain turntable can be wiped clean and ready for the next time recording work. To commemorate Nicolas Rieussec’s creative and great invention, Montblanc released the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph in 2008. Its key chronograph elements are loyal to the original dial, not the hands commonly found in the field. The dial that can be used to write time not only made Montblanc famous in the field of top watchmaking, but also reminded the world that Montblanc has developed writing instruments for more than a century.